Five burgers in five days

Local joints offer more than just a juicy patty topped with cheese.

By Bob Townsend for the AJC

The hamburger is an American obsession. So much more than beef and bun, it's comfort food and a guilty pleasure, the long-running subject of social debate and, suddenly it seems, the object of gourmet fetishization.

Just watch that TV commercial where "Top Chef" judge Padma Lakshmi makes eating a Hardee's Bacon Western Thickburger look like an outtake from "Nine 1/2 Weeks."

Or witness "Top Chef" finalist Richard Blais creating a buzz at Atlanta's Flip Burger Boutique -- applying his molecular gastronomy skills to uberpatties made from house-ground hanger steak, brisket and short rib.

"The thing you have to realize is that chefs are usually burger fanatics," celebrity chef Bobby Flay told BusinessWeek soon after opening four Bobby's Burger Palaces in New York and New Jersey. "When we go out after a tough shift, we go for burgers, and so we have a lot of opinions about how to do it right."

Doing it right has become the rallying cry for several "better burger" chains recently opened in Atlanta.

Two of the newest, Canyons Burger Co. and Cheeseburger Bobby's, are homegrown. But Virginia-based Five Guys Burgers and Fries has nearly 30 restaurants in the metro area now. The Counter, which is based in California, opened in Roswell last year. And Florida-based EVOS opened in Sandy Springs in June.

What all five have in common is a fast-casual concept that's a cut above fast food, with higher quality ingredients and an atmosphere that ranges from sophisticated to fun to feel good. Of course, expect to pay more for it - up to $8.50 for a one-third-pound cheeseburger at the Counter.

Earlier this month, I embarked on a burger odyssey, traveling throughout Atlanta to try out each place.

I ate five burgers in five days. Not exactly a heart-healthy regime. But the method to this calorie and cholesterol madness was simple. I ordered the signature burger with cheese and the kinds of toppings that would show freshness and quality, such as lettuce, tomato, pickles and onions.

After all, even McDonald's is offering a new Angus one-third-pound cheeseburger with those things. And as it turned out, that "better" fast-food burger proved a good test case. Surprisingly, the toppings, including McDonald's, were all pretty good, and some were super.

Not surprisingly, every burger I tried, except for one, was better than McDonald's. Cheeseburgers at the Counter, Cheeseburger Bobby's and Five Guys were so clearly superior that comparison with Mickey D's was a moot point.

Which brings us to the bottom line: Fresh beef, well-seasoned and cooked in a manner that keeps it juicy, is what makes a better burger; a fresh bun and toppings bring it all together. With that criteria in mind, here are my tasting notes, listed in order of preference:

1) The Counter

Location: 850 Mansell Road, Roswell, 678-461-9661, www.thecounterburger.com

Concept: A contemporary rendition of the classic California burger joint, with industrial decor, loud music, beer, wine and thousands of different cooked-to-order burger combinations built from a clipboard menu.

Pros: This is the only one of the five places where you can get a blood rare burger. Confident or crazy, it's certainly a testament to the freshly ground all-natural beef. A one-third-pound "Old School" burger ordered medium rare was juicy and perfectly seasoned, with gooey Tillamook cheddar and a fragrantly bready bakery bun.

Cons: A knife-and-fork burger that can be difficult to eat fully loaded with toppings; loud music; sides only come in large sharing sizes; the most expensive of the five burgers tasted.

Extras: Nice selection of craft beers on draft, including Anchor and Dogfish Head; thin, crispy fries and onion strings; high-quality cheeses and toppings, including gruyere and fried onion strings.

Bottom line: A burger on par with what you might find at many fine dining restaurants.